"[A] fantastic blog... which ranges from opinions on food and wine to daily adventures in a culinary-related profession."

Monday, October 25, 2010

[Chef] Capon & Cooking with Fabiana

Saturday was a much savored day off for me and I decided to spend the first portion of it having brunch with Cynthia at Lure.

The streets of SoHo were awash and in a twitter; and there was a line waiting to enter the recently opened Moncler store on Prince Street.

I’d never brunched at Lure before and decided I’d order something available only on the brunch menu. (I wanted the lobster roll; another time, I guess) What stood out most, to me, was the biscuits & sausage gravy with scrambled eggs and hash browns.

The biscuits were fine (and different than I’d expected; their shape was more like patties than like biscuits) and the potatoes were fine as well. But the eggs: not even worth being on the plate. (perhaps I’d just ordered the wrong dish)

Cynthia ordered the weekend burger topped with fried egg and bacon and two bloody marys, for the table. I’d definitely had better bloody marys, before, but theirs did have some "clammyness," to them, which I liked.

Next on the weekend's agenda was 'happy hour' with Fabiana. We had originally planned on going to Woo Lae Oak, but they didn't have a happy hour menu; perhaps they only offer weekend happy hour during low season... I instead, told her to meet me at B&B.

I figured B&B would be a comparable choice since they have wine on tap for $8 and beers as well. However, they still only had a limited selection available (chardonnay and vermentino) of their barrel wines."It's not our fault; it's [the vineyard's]." That didn’t bother me though, I already had plans to order the caramel twist spiked shake.

Seconds after I'd placed the order with Melissa, I thought to myself: I should have made it a double. But nonetheless, the recipe was perfect; there was enough bourbon in the shake to balance out its wholesomeness. While Fabiana and I sipped our drinks, we noticed, on the specials menu: white truffle burger, $48. Melissa said, with shavings of truffles, just arrived Thursday, from Piedmont, Italy, the burger was selling like hotcakes. Too bad I had just had brunch...


While at B&B, Fabiana dictated to me the first recipe in a string of recipes which I'll feature on a new page, on this blog, called: COOK'S CORNER. COOK'S CORNER will feature simple recipes that almost any novice will have no problem mastering on their own--and they'll be tasty too.

Back in Fabiana's globe-trotting days, she often found herself in foreign countries, not knowing what kind of foods to buy for herself. But she did know that with three simple ingredients in your refrigerator, you will never go hungry. Tomatoes, eggs and cheese.

Here's one recipe, using tomatoes.


FABIANA’S 2-STEP MARINARA SAUCE (with infused oil base)


For the marinara:

2 cans crushed tomatoes (preferably with basil)

1 large yellow onion – diced small

5 cloves minced garlic

Salt, pepper and red pepper flakes – to taste

1 bunch of basil, leaves only, chopped (save 5, unchopped, for the oil)

1 fresh bay leaf


For the oil:

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

Pinch of red flakes (or more, to your liking)

2 fresh bay leaves

5 whole basil leaves

5 crushed garlic cloves


STEP 1:

  • Starting with cold olive oil cook all ingredients over low heat until the garlic is golden-brown.
  • Remove from heat; strain the oil, to be used in the marinara sauce; discard the solid ingredients.


STEP 2:

  • Once the infused oil has cooled down a bit, add the onions and cook over medium heat until translucent.
  • With heat remaining on medium, one by one, add: garlic, chopped basil, tomatoes and bay leaf.
  • Simmer, uncovered, for 40 minutes; do not stir during simmering.


This marinara makes a great base for other sauces, such as vodka sauce; add crème fraiche or sour cream.

Fabiana's next recipe: pâté!

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Correction

Last night I was back at Chef Capon's B&B for a little bubbly with my good friend, Noy. Ferran was mixing behind the bar and led us both on a bit of a tasting tour...

They have two nice house sparklers: Lambrusco di Modena, Opera 02, Veneto, Italy (red) and Ultra Brut, Domaine Carneros NV, Carneros, California. (and a Champagne as well) As I was finishing off my wine flight with a champagne cocktail, I noticed, on their menu, something that I may have mistakenly misrepresented.

click to ENLARGE

It turns out that Burger & Barrel doesn't have six different burgers, as I had previously stated, but rather, what appears to be three (along with a chicken, a 'sloppy josh' and a veggie). I also noted the ingredients in the Caramel Twist spiked shake: vanilla ice cream and Maker's Mark Bourbon blended with caramel sauce!

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Birthday Wishlist

Alas, yet another birthday awaits me less than a month away. But I already have a fantasy wishlist which I've been pondering over for the past few months.

First on my wishlist is this set of Truman Capote pins which I'd found on PinMoon Store. I'd have bought them myself, but they've seemed to have sold out since I'd last looked at them. I sent an e-mail inquiring about the pins. We'll see if anyone gets back to me.


Next on my fantasy wishlist is this super-cool, Asian-looking Canon S90 camera case. It'd be purely a novelty item; especially since finding it, online, I'd already gotten myself another camera case which is probably more funcional than this one is anyway. But still, you can't say it's not super-cute.



I also wouldn't mind getting a copy of the Bromberg Brothers Blue Ribbon Cookbook. Actually, I'd like to get it before my birthday so I can have a Beef Marrow dinner party to celebrate with.


But of course, I don't want anyone to actually get me these things; it's just a fantasy wishlist.

Monday, October 18, 2010

Bathroom Shots

"Don't take a picture of yourself in the bathroom. I'm speaking from experience here. Especially if you're not going to photoshop your cruddy bathtub out of the photo. Grotty to the max. Goes against the whole idea, since you are likely trying to look sexy in this bathroom photo op. The same goes with your messy bedroom. I don't want to see a pile of dirty laundry in the background. The end result will look contrived, or worse yet, low class."
Read the full text of One Paranoid Android's Facebook rant here.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Wear A Purple Ribbon





This Wednesday, October 20th, 2010, people across the country will wear purple in honor of ten gay teenagers who committed suicide in recent weeks due to homophobic abuse. Gather anything purple on October 20th and wear it for the day. It doesn't matter where you live; any walk of life is welcome to join in this movement. Please post this, invite people to participate and spread the word.

Friday, October 15, 2010

First Pour at B&B and a Good Burger in DUMBO

Yesterday was the opening of John McDonald's, Josh Pickard's and Chef Josh Capon's brand new B&B (Burger and Barrel) on Houston Street. Of course, I just had to be there...

I walked into the moderately sized, warmly furnished room and took a seat at the bar where Michael, one of B&B's bartenders, greeted me. Michael supplied me with a wine list and the first thing I noticed were the "By The Barrel" wines, served on tap. The wines are locally made in Brooklyn, using grapes from Northfolk, Long Island; being at Burger & Barrel, I decided to give one of the 'barrel wines' a try.

The choices were: chardonnay, vermentino, cabernet blend and syrah. (and nicely priced at just $8 a glass) I opted for syrah, but Michael later informed me that they were out of syrah; in fact, the only wine they had on tap was the chardonnay. I instead went with a glass of their Argentinian malbec ($13) which did not disappoint. Michael then shook my hand, congratulating me as having "the first pour of wine to the public."

As I sipped my malbec, I scrolled over B&B's menu noticing: six different burgers (including the no-longer-a-secret Bash Burger), beef carpaccio, a $10 spiked shake and a salty peanut butter brownie sundae (which I plan to go back for).

After just one glass of wine, I had to scurry back out into the rain to head to DUMBO, Brooklyn for TRANSIT's Corps Exquis show at Galapagos Art Space. The ensemble put on a stellar show and even with the inclement weather, still managed to pull in a full house. At the end, they were all relieved that the five-plus-months-in-the-making performance was finally over and done with.


TRANSIT. Watch a clip of CORPS EXQUIS here.


Post show, we all walked over to reBar for celebratory drinks and snacks. The weather being much cooler than I'd anticipated, I was still in the mood for some red. I ordered a glass of malbec, at the bar, while David opted for a glass of blanc de blanc champagne. Not having had dinner yet, I also ordered a reBar burger with blue cheese and bacon. The malbec was nice and kept me satiated while I waited for my burger to arrive...

When the plate was finally set before me, I was disappointed to find that not only did the burger appear to not be medium-rare, as I had specified, but there also appeared to be American cheese on the top half of the bun in addition to the blue cheese, I had requested, on the patty. That was a combination I was not willing to try. I left the top on the side.

I cut my first bite of the reBar burger and was (unexpectedly) very pleasantly surprised. The burger was full of flavor with a slightly creamy, fully flavorful blue cheese and what seemed to be hand-cut fresh bacon. As I had suspected, the burger wasn't cooked as I had specified, but it didn't diminish my satisfaction.




Also atop the patty were finely chopped onions which added yet another unexpectedly tasty element to the burger. After finishing the burger, I moved on the the "banished bun," deciding I'd give it a try. I topped the bun with a few pickle slices and some burger remnants for the "second course" of my reBar burger. What I'd thought was American cheese, turned out to be harissa mayonnaise. My little pickle sandwich was delicious.

When I ordered my reBar burger at the bar, I had asked for the 'burger only.' But David was ordering a "bag of fries" so we instead decided to order the burger, as is, and David would eat the fries. After a few bites of my burger, I tried one of the fries, then a couple, then a couple more; but with each passing bite (which I kept expecting would be better than the one before) the fries didn't deliver. I told David I found the too-skinny-fries "offensive" and "why [did they] bother making them?" If you order a burger at reBar, don't eat the fries; give them to someone else.

B&B, 25 West Houston Street, Manhattan
reBar, 147 Front Street, Brooklyn

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Lagerfeld's Custom Coke Bottle

photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Chanel
The latest Coca-Cola Light bottle bears the silhouette of the man himself in his signature slim-suit and ponytail (but I can't tell if he's wearing sunglasses on the bottle).

Get your hands on the Lagerfeld-designed bottle at colette.fr!

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

CORPS EXQUIS Premieres Tomorrow!

Just a friendly reminder that tomorrow night is the premiere of Daniel Wohl's (TRANSIT composer) Corps Exquis performed by TRANSIT!

Check out this great video by Satan's Pearl Horses, one of the video installationists (is that a word?) in tomorrow night's show...

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Blue Fish at Le Poisson Rouge

Caesar salad with homemade dressing, lemon confit, parmesan tuile and white anchovies

Monday, October 11, 2010

Burgers by Season (+ B&B Opening & Donuts at Brindle Room)

Saturday night I'd won a bet with one of my managers about how many covers we'd do that night, (374) so after work, I skipped over to Lure and waited for Tiffany to arrive...

I'd won a cocktail from Tiffany, but also owed her a glass of wine in exchange for a lunch tab she'd recently picked up. At Lure, I was happy to see Laura behind the bar, I hadn't seen her in a while and she informed me that they recently changed their house sparkling from Schramsberg 'Mirabelle' to Franciacorta, Ronco Calino. She also informed me that there was an 'off the menu' prosecco. Laura poured me a tasting of both to see which one I'd like better. I chose the prosecco--it had more character.

While sipping my wine, I struck up a conversation with Marcea, another one of Lure's bartenders, who was waiting for her husband to finish his shift. We talked about the opening of B&B (west of Mercer, on Houston), Chef Capon's (of Lure) latest venture which is scheduled to open this Thursday, October 14th. According to Marcea, B&B will be:
... burgers, beer and casual food and they'll also school you on [wine] pairings. Chef Capon plans to be there more or less full time; Lure's sous chef has apprenticed under chef's wing for two years now--the [quality of the] food at Lure will not change.

Later, Tiffany arrived, along with one of our regulars and we chatted more about her plans in place for the donut counter at Brindle Room. She plans on starting the menu small--maple candy bacon, sugar donut, chocolate peanut butter glaze--until she gets a feel for what her customers like...

Yesterday, I'd finally gotten around to going to Mercer Kitchen to have, for myself, the newly debuted "(Mercer) Burger" (different from the Niman Ranch Burger). I'd recently gone there with a friend of mine who'd ordered it and let me have a bite--it was amazing! It's so much better than their Niman Ranch Burger, which I can only eat rare, otherwise it's just too dry and salty for me. The (Mercer) Burger comes with: pepper jack cheese, Russian dressing, guacamole and is topped with "crunchy red onions." It's also a few ounces smaller than the Niman Ranch Burger and comes on a different bun.



The (Mercer) Burger

I ordered my (Mercer) Burger medium rare--ever since my Three Burger Experiment, at Lure, it's the only way I order my burgers (their recommendation) while dining out. The burger was very moist. And even with all those different flavor combinations, not one stood out more than another. They all blended together beautifully to result in one tasty burger. I'd say my only reservations were that I wish there were a few more "crunchy red onions" and that the tomato slice was a bit thick (for me), considering the burger is already on the small side.

The (Mercer) Burger is also a very summery-tasting burger: the cool, juicy, fresh vegetables made me feel like I was at a backyard barbecue--which brings me to the point: Burgers by Season.

Having tried nearly every eminent burger in SoHo (and beyond) I've come to a conclusion of burgers that are appropriate for eating each season of the year. Having already acclaimed The (Mercer) Burger as suitable for summer, let's move on to fall.


Brindle Room's Dry Aged Burger

Brindle Room's dry aged burger is a nice 'fatty' burger that reminds your belly that hibernation is just around the corner...



Lure's off-the-menu Bash Burger

Chef Capon's "secret" Bash Burger with caramelized onions and bacon relish, is a perfect pick for winter. With it's ultra-luxurious texture, it almost makes you feel warm. Try it with a nice glass of red or a Scotch. High-end comfort food...



Lure Style Burger

For spring, there's (also from Chef Capon) the Lure Style Burger. With cool veggies and a clean brioche bun, it's like spring cleaning for your belly (which has been housing too much foie gras, all winter).

Friday, October 8, 2010

Burgers & Donuts at Brindle Room

I was recently invited by one the managers at my restaurant to try the dry aged burger ($13) at Brindle Room, one of her previous posts. Located along a pleasant stretch of East 10th Street, I found the intimate restaurant and propped myself upon a bar stool while I waited for Tiffany to arrive.

Only a few minutes had passed before Chef Jeremy began saddling us up for two of his famous 'Brindle Burgers.' Chef asked what kind of cheese I'd like on my burger to which I replied, "... whatever the chef recommends." He chose American.
I was ready for my Brindle Burger.



The burger was smaller than I'd expected and although I usually eat my burgers sans the top half of the bun, I had a feeling this burger was meant to be eaten whole... My first bite unearthed the moistest, most juiciest burger I've ever tasted. Brindle room's meat supplier, Chef Dean Piccolo, was there to explain the dry aging process to me.

The meat is aged in a de-humidified chamber, drawing out the moisture (resulting in super-concentrated flavor) and marbleizing the fat throughout the meat.

The burger was also topped with deliciously caramelized onions, only adding to the Brindle Burger's succulency. Chef also poured each of us a glass of their Petite Sirah ($10/$38) which was the perfect match for this burger--it had a very distinct sharpness, almost like that of cheddar.

Over our burgers and wine, Tiffany told me of her plans to start selling donuts and coffee-by-the-cup, from 7 a.m. to noon, at the Brindle Room counter. The donuts she'll be offering will be made fresh, on site, by Chef Jeremy and the coffee will be made-to-order, per cup, by a special process keeping the bitter, gritty sediment out of the bottom of your cup, resulting in a very balanced cup of coffee: you'll get all the coffee high, but without the jitters.

The Brindle Room donut counter plans to open November 1st.

Brindle Room, 277 East 10th Street, East Village

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Balthazar

LAST night, after work, Fabiana coerced me into joining her for a drink at Balthazar.

I headed south on Mercer (I don't do Broadway--too many tourists), then east on Spring and landed at 80 Spring Street. Fabiana was already seated at the bar and enjoying a Ketel One martini with olive juice on the side. I'd told Fabiana I could only join her for one drink and decided upon their syrah-grenache ($8). It happened to be the least expensive glass on the list, but also what I was most in the mood for. (I've recently discovered shiraz to be my favorite red)

It was nice to catch up with Fabiana, we never work the same shifts anymore, but yesterday was her one day, each week, where she works in the kitchen as a prep chef. She asked me if I wanted to share the chicken liver and foie gras mousse ($14) with her, but I had already eaten 'family meal'; before long, I was coerced into joining her for some mousse as well…

The mousse was wonderfully "moussy" with sea salt atop and red onion confit, frisée and grilled toast on the side. Tearing each toast into pieces, I dressed the tops with a good spread of mousse, topped with confit and frisée. Wonderful. It was quite possibly the best mousse I've ever had. Fabiana decided we were having another glass, each, (on her) and I sipped my second glass of syrah while we talked about food, restaurants, Fabiana's soon-to-be catering business and my blog--our favorite topics.

As we neared the end of our second libation, Fabiana insisted upon profiteroles ($9). The dish of three lovely little poufs arrived with chocolate dressing on the side which our server poured atop from a raised arm. Filled with ice cream, they were delicious, and more than I'd expected. By the time we finished dessert, Balthazar was filled to the brim. I told Fabiana that although I liked the food at Balthazar, I still wasn't sold on the atmosphere (too big, too bright, too crowded). But as Fabiana had said I would, I did spot one of our regulars; according to Fabiana, all our regulars go to Balthazar...

FABIANA and I made our way out, past the crowds and headed towards Dean & Deluca, on Broadway, to pick up a few treats for David. ("Since I had a nice treat, I think I should bring one home for David as well!") At the chocolates counter I picked out: lemon-thyme dark chocolate, cabernet sauvignon dark truffle, ganache and walnut dark truffle and white chocolate with rosewater over dark ganache. $4.50

On our subway ride home, Fabiana and I talked about our own different Italian recipes during which she divulged her own recipe for a very simple tomato sauce.

Fabiana's Easy Tomato Sauce

Ingredients:
Fresh oregano
An onion
A teaspoon of sugar
A blender

For this recipe, you'll want to set aside a designated amount of all ingredients for later adjustments. You can also add any additional ingredients, such as red pepper flakes, that you might enjoy.

  • Using your hands, squeeze all the liquid out of the tomatoes; place the 'pressed' tomatoes in the blender.
  • Take the onion and grate it over a bowl; pour the liquid only from the onion into the blender. (save the grated onion for another recipe)
  • Finely chop oregano and add into the blender.
  • Add sugar.
  • Blend lightly, allowing some tomato bits to remain.
  • Check the consistency and add more ingredients as necessary.

Terrific on homemade pizza.

Balthazar, 80 Spring Street, SoHo
Dean & Deluca, 560 Broadway, SoHo

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

COPRS EXQUIS

My boyfriend's next show with TRANSIT, which promises to be a good time--one of the composers, of which TRANSIT will be premiering a new piece of his, even has a mention in this week's New York Magazine Approval Matrix! (Highbrow Brilliant)


CORPS EXQUIS is a special project between composer Daniel Wohl, the TRANSIT collective and emerging video artists. With their feet firmly planted in the creative brainstorm of New York City's underground new music and contemporary art scenes, these artists join forces to create a large-scale performance piece that crosses artistic boundaries while speaking directly to contemporary culture.

The Surrealists developed the exquisite corpse parlor game in 1920s Paris in which a piece of art is collectively assembled. Each player is assigned a section, but only allowed a glimpse of the very end of the previous player's contribution; no one sees the final piece until each individual section is completed. In this way, a cohesive work is assembled, but each contributor's identity remains distinct in his work. CORPS EXQUIS uses this process to create a seamless multimedia experience that exists at the intersection of video installation, rock concert, avant-garde cinema, and experimental music.

CORPS EXQUIS will premiere October 14th at Galapagos Art Space in DUMBO, Brooklyn on a triple bill with So Percussion and a world premiere by Tristan Perich. Doors open at 7 p.m.; show begins at 8. BUY TICKETS HERE.

Daniel Wohl has gained a reputation for creating electro-acoustic chamber pieces that shrewdly incorporate processed sounds with live performance. In Corps Exquis, he works in tandem with six video artists to create a surreal multimedia world that exists somewhere at the intersection of experimental chamber music, video installation, avant-garde film, and post-punk-Baroque-pop rock.

Tristan Perich is widely regarded as one of the most original emerging voices in new music. Frequently finding ingenious ways to create appealing music using simple technologies and mathematics, his recent release 1-Bit Symphony won raves from establishment critics and counter-culture bloggers alike.
TRANSIT premieres a new set of his pieces that incorporates a specially created system Tristan designed to digitally process amplification. This new system allows the composer to weave a tapestry of acoustic sounds into an avant-chamber work that sounds unlike anything you've heard before.

Monday, October 4, 2010

Kenny Bakery, Inwood

Saturday morning, I woke up early to go to the Isham Street Farmers' Market, in Inwood, in search of concord grapes; to my disappointment, there were none to be found.

I did, however, stop at the wonderful Kenny Bakery (126A Dyckman Street) on the way home, and picked up a half dozen of their ultra-buttery croissants. (about $1 a piece)


Not only are their croissants the most delicious croissants I've ever tasted, they're also (like nearly everything at Kenny's) massive. These croissants are so buttery, they're practically yellow, and they're soft and chewy on the inside with a slight touch of crunch and flakiness on the outside. They're much denser than your typical croissant; I used to eat only a half, with coffee during breakfast, but lately I've been keen on eating them whole.

Also at Kenny's are exceptional 'sugar donuts' (ask for plain donuts). 75¢



These cakey, fried donuts are intense. Like the croissants, they're irregularly large (I often picture a small hamburger whenever I eat them); I think if I had my own counter joint I'd call them JUMNUTS (jumbo donuts), on the menu.

That's a dinner plate you're seeing.
Perfect plain, but recently David came up with his own
variation for a luxurious late-night snack.

Kenny Bakery, 126A Dyckman Street, Inwood
1 train to Dyckman, walk 1/2 block west; on your left, before Dunkin' Donuts