"[A] fantastic blog... which ranges from opinions on food and wine to daily adventures in a culinary-related profession."

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Its American Debut...

The first stop on my Fashion Week itinerary will be for the "American debut" of the limited edition San Pellegrino/Missoni bottle (including a hand-made bottle cover crafted by Missoni). The special event will be hosted by Pellegrino and Margherita & Luca Missoni of the Missoni label. Preview a video, below, of the premiere party in Italy.


Sunday, August 29, 2010

De Wine Spot & Blueberry Mode

Friday night I paid another visit to De Wine Spot in Williamsburg. While there, I purchased a nice bottle of South Australian Shiraz ($9).

Wine Spot's stock is a little low right now; but, no, they're not going out of business--just making room for fall's shipments...


(but, some interesting stock still remains: Gailliano liqueur for Harvey Wallbangers and baby plum wine jars with nesting frogs)


Saturday, David and I woke up early and went to the Isham Street Farmers' Market in Inwood. It'd been a while since I'd last gone and on this previous visit, the market was ripe with plenty of delectable-looking selections. (there were even fresh-cut flowers, which I'd never seen there before and green grape tomatoes too) David's primary mission was to find good heirloom tomatoes (which we found), but we also came home with: celery, leeks, apples, plums and blueberries. Sunday, after work, David surprised me with a delicious "blueberries and donut à la mode"


... which was the perfect ending to my Sunday-double.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Ten Thousand Views!

As of today, my blog has garnered a nifty 10,000 profile views! A big thank you goes out to you all...

On an alternate note: Fabiana (my co-MD) chastised me the other day for saying: I don't do bistros. Expect an upcoming review of Balthazar...

(or Benoit)

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Hotel Griffou & Williamsburg's 'Sparkling Wine Spot'

I've recently decided that I only want to dine at restaurants I've personally been invited to. I've been invited (more than once) to The Mermaid Inn, (whose chef is the beau of the pastry chef at Lure) but upon viewing their menu online, I'd decided that I had no desire to eat there. The Mermaid Inn is strictly a seafood only restaurant--not a stitch of "meat" on the menu (except chicken, but who orders that?). I'm sorry, but I just have to eat meat at dinner.

I was also recently invited to dine at Benoit by a co-worker of mine whose partner is Benoit's chef de cuisine. Initially, upon learning that it was the former La Côte Basque space, I was beyond thrilled to have been invited. But after a bit of research, my interest waned and I no longer wanted to eat there. I just don't do "bistros"--that's why I've never been to Balthazar and probably, never will be.

But just the other day, another co-worker of mine piqued my interest enough that today I dined at Hotel Griffou for lunch.

According to her, Hotel Griffou's "Griffou Burger" is 75% beef, 25% pork. Perhaps it was merely her enthusiastic delivery, but her culinary pitch interested me enough to make my way over to West 9th Street, to the (somewhat) unmarked restaurant and order myself a Griffou Burger.


I walked down and into the dimly lit enclave and after making a brief pause for a quick rundown of my surroundings, decidedly strode towards the bar. I pulled up one of the three available bar stools (it was happy hour) and decided the space in front of me was too small for proper dining. I asked the maître d' if she'd be able seat me at a table for lunch, to which she readily had her hostess precede me to "table ten."

I followed the hostess through a short maze of halls and entryways before finally arriving at what I believed to be "The Library." (Griffou has multiple "theme rooms")

the view from table ten, seat two

My server was both thoroughly pleasant and thoroughly knowledgeable about the wine selections. I'd told her I was somewhat betwixt and between over which wine to choose and she recommended the rosé cava, followed by a white (specially picked to pair with my burger). Before I was through with my first glass, my burger arrived.


Removing the top half of the bun, I sliced into my first meaty morsel and was pleased enough, yet: nothing extraordinary. There was a distinct, almost smoky taste to the meat, but the little grandeur that was there faded more and more with each passing bite. (I guess I had tried to convince myself it was better than it actually was) The fries were nothing special and in fact, weren't even good. Surprisingly though, after finishing the burger (sans the top bun) and about a third of the fries, I was completely stuffed and couldn't eat another bite. (perhaps the meat was, at least, of good quality)

My next stop that evening was at De Wine Spot, in Williamsburg, to pay a visit to an old friend of mine who I hadn't seen in quite some time. I'd never been to De Wine Spot before and was thrilled upon discovering two particular bottles I'd never even known to exist! The first bottle was a Casal Garcia, Vinho Verde, Rosé.


Regular readers of my blog will know that David is a big fan of Casal Garcia. But I don't think either of us had known (or even imagined) that they also make a rosé wine. (note: vinho verde is a sparkling wine and I love sparkling rosé) The second bottle I'd discovered was Riondo, 'Pink,' Spago Argento (prosecco).



I've had Riondo's white prosecco before, but never before had I had their rosé prosecco. Appeasingly, the rosé was just as remarkable as their white: a good dose of yeastiness and some aged fruits as well. Irresistible at $12, we popped open a bottle and played French dominoes until closing time.

Friday, August 20, 2010

ASE to JFK... please!

David finally returns from his eight week long music festival this weekend! (I can't wait)

Here's a video I made from one of his final performances in NYC, before the festival, at Tenri Cultural Institute; he performs Tristan Perich's "Month."


Sorry, the sound quality is not so great.

Monday, August 16, 2010

For Summer: San Pellegrino meets Missoni!

EVEN though I set my alarm for noon today, I just woke up, at 5:51 p.m. (I guess I really needed the sleep) I'd just recently returned from a two day (round) trip to Lincoln, Massachusetts for the wedding of two very dear friends of mine. It was the first 'home wedding' I'd ever been to and yet, the most beautiful. There was a strings ensemble (5 violinists, 1 cellist and 2 violists, I believe) to play all the music for the ceremony and a violin duo, later, during the reception.

Cocktail hour began with a cheese station (and a lovely honeydew soup amuse-bouche) and passed hors d'œuvre. After cocktails, we all found our seats at tables which were set ever so charmingly... (in place of cards for table numbers were green glass bottles, with the numbers painted on them)


I was seated next to the head violinist who explained to me why the first seat on the left is always reserved for the head violinist and who also wore a terrific pair of oxfords.


The first course started with a simple, yet suiting salad and for the main course, I chose off the wagon: steamed summer vegetables and a delectable baked trout in puff pastry. (which everyone raved about)


Early Sunday morning found me back on Manhattan Island after an unexpected detour: my bus caught fire. It was too late for me to go home so I instead took a leisurely stroll from Chrystie Street to Prince Street and along the way snapped a photo of a stray oyster on the sidewalk:


(I must be back in SoHo)

THAT Sunday, I worked a double; but two pilsner-sized glasses filled with iced coffee (and lots of sugar) and one pain au chocolat, somehow, managed to get me through my day. Towards the end, I noticed, on our dining room floor, a new label affixed to our Pellegrino bottles.


This limited edition bottle is the premiere issue in San Pellegrino's "Italian Talents" project in which the company teams up with quality Italian talents (artists/musicians/architects/designers/fashion designers) in a combined effort to "promote Italian talents."

Available to the On Trade category and selected retailers, the Missoni bottle hopes to appeal to both existing and new consumers and create interesting news in the bottled water category.

Instantly dazzled by the bottle, I just had to get my hands on one; I knew it was going to become a collector's piece!


Watch a terrific video about San Pellegrino's "Italian Talents" project here.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Highbrow Despicable

The most recent issue of Italian Vogue boasts a spread, shot by Steven Meisel, entitled "Water & Oil." I find [the spread] to be utterly despicable and disgraceful--all those involved should be ashamed of themselves.

Does a stylist walk along the Gulf Coast and say: Look at that bird covered in oil, gasping for air--it's gorgeous!
What can we expect next? a spread mimicking earthquake and tsunami victims?

But oh, I forgot, the spill didn't affect people--just animals...








Email Vogue at vogueitalia@vogue.it

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

B.E.S. and The (Standard) Living Room

Tuesday, my good friend, Shawn (a.k.a. D.J. Glitterpants), invited me to come out to Patrick Duffy's Tuesday night dinner/dance party: House of B.E.S. at B.E.S. (Boutique Eat Shop), in Chelsea. I arrived at B.E.S. just after nine and being alone, decided to have dinner at the bar.

I had already previewed the menu beforehand and remained with my decision that Italian sausage with pasta appealed to me most; there was also a pairing recommendation that I went with, which was enjoyable. (but service was less than I'm used to: I had to remind the bartender that I wanted some water and my place setting arrived only moments before my dish had)

As I sipped my glass of wine (Côte Ronnaise, I believe) I thought about how excited I was to dine, that evening, at B.E.S.; their website boasted of installations from local galleries, had a handful of breathtaking photos and claimed a "dining experience like no other... like stepping into someone's home."

But 1. their "installations" didn't impress me; they only made me think of a more high-end CB2; and 2. I did not feel like I was in "someone's home"--unless they'd lived in a renovated corner venue on a no-man's-land stretch of 11th Avenue. And as for the breathtaking impressions I'd received after viewing the photo gallery on B.E.S.' website, this, instead, was my actual impression:


A bit to be desired... (and that's the kitchen, behind the stately facade) But, I still had a tasty dish of blood sausage to await.

When my dish finally arrived, it arrived without much hurrah. And after my first taste, I thought to myself: This needs something. As miffed as I may have been, thus far, I never like being the "dissatisfied guest"--especially when dining at the bar. I patiently awaited my bartender's attention before asking him if he had any pepper [at the bar]. He turned as if to exit the bar and for a moment, I thought that there was finally going to be some rectification for this less than pleasant start to my meal. But instead of returning with a pepper mill, which I had thought he was leaving the bar to fetch, he returned, instead, with the smallest of small (and more than half empty) pepper shaker. My only hope of solace was in peppering my pasta beyond recognition.


The pepper did lend a much needed hand to the pasta and to the sauce; and the sausage (although the dish could have stood for a few additional pieces) was fine. The crostini, although tasty, was an unnecessary addition; it would have been better suited with something else. I finished my entrée and without much surprise, no dessert menu was offered by the bartender. (but he, at least, was good about keeping my glass full)

I chatted with Shawn and his mother, who was visiting from Seattle, over another glass or two of wine while I waited for my friend, Danny, to arrive. One cava and one scotch and soda later, we both left B.E.S. (alternate acronym: Better Eat Somewhere-else?) and headed south for The Standard.

As we neared The Standard's entrance, I decided I didn't want to deal with the crowd which was visibly pouring out of The Standard Grill, onto Washington Street. We instead opted for lounging in "The Living Room," adjacent the hotel lobby. I'd decided I'd done enough imbibing for one night and scrolled over the late-night menu while Danny ordered himself a Royal Standard.


I had one sip: "Too tart and dark for me..." (but it was certainly pretty-looking)

By the time our server returned with water, I'd narrowed down my decision to The Big Johnson, but first, wanted to confirm:

Me: Is the Big Johnson a hot dog?

Server: Yes--it's like, two hot dogs.

Me: I'll take that.


The dish arrived...


and was clearly not a hot dog. Adding to my confusion, as I tasted my first bite:

Me: This is cold!

Danny: Lady, that's your pickle.

(we were in a very dark corner)

The "Big Johnsons" (sausages) were fine and the fries were delicious (as they usually are there). I also especially loved the single-use condiments that were brought out prior to the dish: ketchup, Dijon mustard, mayonnaise and two cellars--one with salt and one with pepper.


After I finished the dish (with help from Danny), Danny continued with a glass of prosecco while I took a look at the dessert menu. I decided upon Baked Alaska, something I'd never had before...


The dessert was flawlessly delicious and the blueberries tasted fresh! I've definitely found a new late-night eatery...

Standard Grill, 848 Washington Street, serves late-night until 4 a.m.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Q & A With East of Eighth's Chef

Mini Lump Crab Cakes at East of Eighth

As you all may well know, East of Eighth is one of my top favorite restaurants in NYC. Last Friday, after dinner, I decided to ask the chef, Martin Markovitz, if he'd be willing to take part in an interview with me; he obliged.

PB: Are you native to New York?

MM: No, I'm a native Chicagoan and my interest in New York came from old movies and the romance of the city--I just had to live here.

PB: Tell me about some of the restaurants you've worked at prior to East of Eighth.

MM: I began my Chelsea experience at Trois Canards, on 18th and 8th, which I helped to open, but my early experience was purely (expensive) French: Le Plaisir, Le Bistro, Le Provençal and The Carlye Hotel, just to name a few. I also did a four year run at Caliban, a neighborhood tavern on 3rd Avenue, which was a great experience and where I learned about wine. We had a 10,000 bottle cellar for our 40 seat dining room. Lots of rare and first growth wines were available. We imported much of our fish and other supplies from France and were one of the first restaurants in New York to buy from D’Artagnan. We used fresh truffles from Urbani and fresh foie gras. It was a pleasant place to work and after service we'd drive our motorcycles from the backyard, where we parked them and go for a ride before returning to close the bar at around 6 a.m.

I've been here, at "EOE," since its inception in 1996, for fifteen years.

PB: Explain the philosophy behind EOE's menu.

MM: Many people laughed when we opened up because we had Matzo Ball Soup next to Southwestern Black Bean Soup with Chorizo. We were one of the first successful eclectic, mixed-menu restaurants. Our philosophy is (and always has been): 1. Great comfort food at a great price (a great price is part of the comfort, no?) 2. Give New Yorkers the food they crave, no matter what the inspiration or ethnic origin 3. Have a relaxed and all-inclusive door policy: gay, straight, transgender... are all invited.

PB: What do you like about EOE's location?

MM: I (of course) like the mix of interesting people in Chelsea--from local families to local color; they all add their own fun to the restaurant...

PB:

I once had your grilled pork chop with blackened peaches and thought it to be a very thoughtful, unexpected touch. (It was a very interesting combination that worked well!) What's your inspiration when designing dishes?

MM: There are simple rules for making things tasty; sweet, sour, salty, spicy. Believe it or not, I can taste things in my head before cooking them and focus on balancing these elements to create a new dish. But I also love the classic dishes of all cuisines--I do Tandoori Chicken, Moroccan Couscous, a great Bouillabaisse, Coq au Vin, Steak Frites and others.

PB: Lastly, I'd like to add that once, while dining at EOE, I thought to myself: I can't believe The New York Times hasn't discovered this place! --do you have any comment?

MM: Well, I'd say there are a number of factors contributing to that.

(not in any specific order, except how they cross my mind)


First: I wanted to work in a place that didn't need a review to survive. I've played those games before and it's difficult, to be sure. East of Eighth has been perfect for me. We live comfortably under the radar of critics who may or may not get our goal. Next to the high-wire acts and fireworks of other places, screaming for their place on the food scene, we survive quietly, doing fairly straight-forward food. We may sometimes seem boring, or even uninspired, to people used to being dazzled by the showmanship of other trendy restaurants. Sometimes, great food at a great price is not enough of a performance...

Second: There was a time when we had plenty of drag shows at our restaurant that were popular, yet vulgar; and that brought down our reputation as a dining destination. Also, we're known to be a place with a "non-traditional" clientele; and that also overshadowed our perception as a destination for foodies.


[The New York Times] know[s] we are here... they were blinded by the buzz and probably, still are.

East of Eighth, 254 West 23rd Street near 8th Avenue, Chelsea