The answer to that question would be a very skilled seamstress by the name of Usana (sp?) at the Marc by Marc Jacobs store on W. 4th St.
I've been buying all my suiting jackets there for a few seasons now and the best perk of all to shopping at Marc is that they'll custom tailor your jacket according to your specific requests--completely free of charge! (But do tip the seamstress of course.)
Usana is the in house seamstress for Marc and she also does the tailoring for all the runway shows. She's altered 3 of my jackets so far; I usually just have her shorten the sleeves a bit and take in the body to make it "skinnier." (She knows what she's doing and she'll tell you if what you have in mind won't work. "You can't make the sleeves skinnier, no good.")
My latest acquisition from Marc by Marc is a fitted black wool blazer with tiny electric blue fibers woven throughout it (a small, but very cool detail). Prudently, I would have picked something from their spring collection, but the only jacket I liked, a crumpled jacket in black, was too similar to one I already had (a crumpled metal jacket in brown).
My boss said it looked very classy.
Perhaps, my latest jacket will become a little too warm for wear in a couple of months, but oh well... my excuse for another one in the spring. > >
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